|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 9:11 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 02, 2010
Posts: 19
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Essex
|
 |
I have had the GTI 180 10 years without ever having a problem when starting.
I have just had the clutch, drive shaft seals, timing belt and water pump changed and now it takes a while to get started when cold.
I know that the garage had problems with the timing as they did not know the locations of the cam locking locations. Not sure if they started it up out of time.
They also topped up the engine oil. Not sure if they used the correct oil, but I doubt a small amount of incorrect oil would mean the car will struggle to start when cold? But I will change the oil anyway as it is due.
Spark plugs have only done 10k.
No issues starting when it is warm, hot and when the car is running. No loss of power that is obvious.
Any suggestions?
I'm worried it will get worse in the winter when colder.
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:17 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 09, 2014
Posts: 205
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Could be the coolant temperature sensor... it fixed a similar sounding problem on mine and for £15 ish for the sensor is probably worth a go if you haven't changed it.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 12:13 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 02, 2010
Posts: 19
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Essex
|
|
That was my next port of call, so will try that.
I have changed the crank position sensor and that does not work.
Does anyone know if it is a possibility that the timing is out?
Is it possible that it is taking so long to start because the timing is out (just a little) and it is taking a few cranks for the VVT to adjust to the correct timing? I'm not entirely sure how VVT works, but could the Variable Valve Timing be compensating for the timing being slightly out? So this is why it takes a number of cranks to start. But it doesnt have a problem when warm because the VVT/ECU still remembers to compensate?
And then when it is cold again, the ECU has forgotten that the timing is out and needs to learn to alter the valve timing again.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 2:10 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
|
|
Try unplugging the cam shaft position sensor, if it starts it will run rough , but should still start.
But could well be the timing being out by a tooth or two, not uncommon on 180's when people who aren't sure what there doing with the engine do them, and you saying they didn't know where the locking pins were doesn't exactly inspire confidence in the quality of work on the job.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:25 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 02, 2010
Posts: 19
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Essex
|
|
I can unplug the cam shaft position sensor. But will that tell me if it
starts and what will it tell me if it doesnt start?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 8:01 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 02, 2010
Posts: 19
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Essex
|
|
Can anyone help with this?
A new temperature sensor and crank sensor have not solved the issue. I have cleaned the VVT solenoid, which is in good condition. I have also cleaned the camshaft sensor.
I have the option of replacing the cam shaft sensor to see if this works. And I can also clean the MAP.
Surely if the timing is out by one tooth on the inlet cam side, I would notice a loss of power or something won't be right? Or will the VVT compensate for timing being out by a single tooth?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17129
Online Now [555]:
Visitors: 554
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
