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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Fan not kicking in |
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 Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 4:10 pm |
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Joined: Sep 08, 2019
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
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Got a problem with my 206, 1.4 its had a intermittent fault on the temperate sender for some time, it would go into the red, then back down, but was not over heating, now today, I went on a longish run ( 20 miles) and this time the gauge went into the red back down, then when I stopped went straight up into the red again, and the fan didn't cut in, the coolant was really hot so I pulled over, let it cool down, topped it up, and manage to get home , all the time it was running, it stayed at about 80 degrees, but as soon as I stooped back up it shot, I have ordered a new temperature sender, does this also act as the trigger for the ECU? or is it the other sender, there's two, my car has air con and power steering, so am I right in thinking the fan should come on at slow speed for the air con? im going to have the fan out tomorrow, or the first dry day we get, to test the fan works, by wiring it up to a 12v supply, if it does, am I right in thinking relays and possibly the resister?
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Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 9:11 pm |
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Joined: Jul 11, 2011
Posts: 95
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Kent
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Are you losing fluid then, you say you had to top it up. Does the oil have water in it or is there signs of oil in the expansion tank?
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| ..........I can\'t help it I just like French cars! | |
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Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 11:46 am |
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Joined: Sep 08, 2019
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
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| clicon357 wrote: |
| Are you losing fluid then, you say you had to top it up. Does the oil have water in it or is there signs of oil in the expansion tank? |
no oil in the water the expansion tank is quite dirty no sign of any coolant in the oil either, the coolant was coming out of the header seal, I had to top it up after the engine had cooled, the head gasket does not appear to have gone, the engine isn't down on power,
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Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 1:44 pm |
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Joined: Jul 11, 2011
Posts: 95
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Kent
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I had similar recently. 2000 1.4i 206. The steel water pump impeller had disintegrated.
flic.kr/p/2iarKys
Coolant water was therefore pretty "rusty". Wasn't the only issue. Head gasket was letting pressure into the water chambers but no oil in water or water in oil.
Cap was over pressuring and when you turned the engine off you could hear a "whine" from the cap. TWICE the pipe on the thermostat housing sheared leaving the stub of the housing in the top hose.
flic.kr/p/2iavikb
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| ..........I can\'t help it I just like French cars! | |
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Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 6:31 pm |
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Joined: Sep 08, 2019
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
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whats it with these cars lol, anyway I'm going with the original problem first, that is to remove the fan and relays test them, if the fan works, then clean it all up, fit a new resister anyway, whilst its all apart, then then drain the rad, flush everything through change the temperature sender, and then test it, before I start on things like coolant pump , do I actually need to remove the front bumper and headlights as per the Haynes book?
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Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:19 pm |
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Joined: Jul 11, 2011
Posts: 95
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Kent
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I've read there's some relays in a box under thd slam panel that can corrode. Worth a check?
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| ..........I can\'t help it I just like French cars! | |
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Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 6:04 am |
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Joined: Jul 11, 2011
Posts: 95
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Kent
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| martin56 wrote: |
| whats it with these cars lol, anyway I'm going with the original problem first, that is to remove the fan and relays test them, if the fan works, then clean it all up, fit a new resister anyway, whilst its all apart, then then drain the rad, flush everything through change the temperature sender, and then test it, before I start on things like coolant pump , do I actually need to remove the front bumper and headlights as per the Haynes book? |
The temperature sensor is just behind the thermostat housing isn't it? Just unscrews and has a green (3 pin plug) on top.
See here just to the right of the head behind the lifting lug:
flic.kr/p/2iaucwy
Replaced my rad, water pump, timing belt etc without removing bumper and lights. Will need to pop off the nsf wheel arch liner for access to do belt and water pump.
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| ..........I can\'t help it I just like French cars! | |
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Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 12:27 pm |
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Joined: Sep 08, 2019
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
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Normally its below that you have to remove the extension housing , yes I know about the relay position and their ability to corrode , looking at mine, I have one sender tucked away on the side of the housing, and the green one, on the top, Technical question, are both the same part? the brown one, on my car is blacked off so only two, one green, one blue, no brown, which should be there because I have air con . yet there is no plug flapping around but it might be worth having a second look because this brown one is the combined coolant switch and fan sender. unless the ECU( Green ) sends the signal to the fan
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Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 5:17 am |
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Joined: Jul 11, 2011
Posts: 95
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Kent
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This has just reminded me I need to clean / drain / flush sometime. After all the work done my coolant is still rusty coloured but then there was a lot of rusty sludge I guess from the water pump impeller sat around the water chambers in the block. Forgot to say that I even did the heater matrix.
Pic giving an idea of how mucky it was!
flic.kr/p/2iau8TS
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| ..........I can\'t help it I just like French cars! | |
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Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 8:08 am |
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Joined: Sep 08, 2019
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
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| clicon357 wrote: |
| martin56 wrote: |
| whats it with these cars lol, anyway I'm going with the original problem first, that is to remove the fan and relays test them, if the fan works, then clean it all up, fit a new resister anyway, whilst its all apart, then then drain the rad, flush everything through change the temperature sender, and then test it, before I start on things like coolant pump , do I actually need to remove the front bumper and headlights as per the Haynes book? |
The temperature sensor is just behind the thermostat housing isn't it? Just unscrews and has a green (3 pin plug) on top.
See here just to the right of the head behind the lifting lug:
no the gauge sender is underneath the housing on the side, a single wire connector, the one on top with 3 wires is the ECU coolant control , im assuming this controls the fan switch also
flic.kr/p/2iaucwy
Replaced my rad, water pump, timing belt etc without removing bumper and lights. Will need to pop off the nsf wheel arch liner for access to do belt and water pump. |
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Posted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 6:54 pm |
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Joined: Sep 08, 2019
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
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Well, finally gotten to the bottom of it, removed fan ( and most of front end) and what a mess I found, broken feed wire to high speed fan, relay, Corroded terminals on both relays, failed high/ low speed resistor, but the fan its self was ok when I tested it off the car, its a really bad design, so new relays, new resister, and I'm rewiring the relays with new plugs, and new wires, hopefully that will sort it, I have also got the radiator off, and will flush out the engine fit new senders, which I already have to hand, hopefully that will sort everything out before summer. water was quite rusty, but no oil in it, and a good clean out must help things.
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Posted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:07 pm |
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Joined: Jan 06, 2020
Posts: 176
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Cheshire
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Yes the relay wiring getting corroded is a known issue. In fairness though, the newest of these cars are now 14 years old with the majority seemingly about 16-18 so they've not done terrible really.
The job of rewiring is just about possible with only the grille removed, but if you value your skin/sanity it's a lot easier with the "face" of the car off.
As for flushing/back flushing I'd say since you're already this far in, and have evidence of lacklustre coolant maintenance in the past, it'd be rude not to & can't hurt it.
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2020 5:13 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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The very early 206 have a separate loom for the cooling fan / relays / resistor - if it's still available & your skilled with soldering iron / heatshrink it makes a very neat repair.
You do have to swop over the connector plug for the fan motor as its different.
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